This is where eating out gets seriously rock’ n’ roll. Flesh & Buns, with its deliberately provocative name, lurks in a cavernous basement area, the noise from which can be heard several streets away. The space inside is dominated by a single long, high communal table, and the owners boast that their bathroom walls are papered with Hentai, a risqué Japanese comic strip. It’s the sort of place to drop into for a lunch-time leaving party, of the more raucous kind.

Although Flesh & Buns is described as Isakaya, which is a Japanese drinking den, this is not a Japanese restaurant. In fact the focus of the menu is the hirata bun, an Americanised version of Taiwanese street food, a DIY-style meal in which sweet, fluffy dough is folded into pockets which diners can stuff with “flesh” of their choice – pork belly, crispy duck, fried mackerel. It’s very filling, but it’s worth leaving room for the signature dessert, s’more – slabs of marshmallow toasted on sticks over burning coals and sandwiched between two biscuits.

Noise and all, Flesh & Buns is packed every night with a buzzing crowd.It’s a must if you want to keep up with the latest trends in funky food.



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